Discovering Córdoba (18)

Another day, another buffet breakfast.  Our view was that we might as well scoff down all of the embutidos (cured meats), tostadas con aceite y tomate (toasted bread with olive oil and tomato) that we can, while we were on holiday.

We set off with no plan whatsoever.  While Mum was looking in a souvenir shop, she saw a postcard of a garden and wanted to know where it was.  Oh, yes... the Real Alcázar...  Just as well for the postcard, as I had forgotten clean about it.  This, therefore, became our plan.  As I've already written a (very brief) summary of the Alcazar's history on another blog, I'll just transfer it here.

Just for a bit of history (and a varied one, at that): The palace was built to house Islamic leaders, but was later used as a royal residence (ie by Christian royalty), as a headquarters during the Inquisition, a town jail, and finally a military jail.   It was declared to be a historical monument in 1931, and is part of the UNESCO heritage zone.

View from one of the towers in the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos, Córdoba.

Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos, Córdoba.

Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos, Córdoba.

The gardens were indeed lovely, and peaceful.  We wandered around them, and went up a few towers to catch some views.  Being garden-lovers, Mum and Dad were extremely pleased to be able to come through here.  So, thank you, postcard, for appearing at the right time.

Tour Leader then insisted on a visit to an Arab tea house, which she remembered from a previous visit to the town.  Unfortunately, this was where her memory ran out: she didn't know the name or location.  Consequently, she was obliged to ask some Policemen.  

They did indeed direct her to the one she wanted: an Arab-style tea house with great decor... and sweets.  It's called Salón de Té/Casa Andalusí (Buen Pastor, 13, Córdoba).  There were 3 of us, and we got a big pot of tea, plus an assortment of sweets and dried fruit, for 12€.  Well worth it.

Tea and sweets from the Salón de Té/Casa Andalusí, Córdoba.

Surroundings at the Salón de Té/Casa Andalusí, Córdoba.

As previously mentioned, Tour Leader had tagged a visit to the Mezquita Cathedral as obligatory, so Mum and Dad were forced to comply.  Despite being unimpressed with the way the church uses its riches to glorify itself, they were very impressed with the building.  It's hard not to be.

Inside the Mezquita Cathedral in Córdoba.

Near the altar of the Mezquita Cathedral in Córdoba.

Given how fascinating the Mezquita is, we were there for a good hour and a half.  That meant there was only time for a spot of shopping before heading back to the train station.

We set off to Jaén, with three boys and a dog in the seats across the aisle.  By the time we arrived and settled into the luxurious Hotel Infanta Cristina, we were starving.  Unfortunately, the hotel is quite a (slightly uphill) walk from the historic centre of Jaén, where most of the eateries are.  And Jaén's only real option for public transport is buses.  When you're not familiar with a city, they're never idea.  There is the tram, running right past the hotel... Well, it would run right past the hotel, if there was an actual tram, instead of just the tracks.  (Sorry, Jaén.  I couldn't resist.)

Evenutally, we found a tapas-y bar where the parentals could try arroz caldoso, which we were told was Andalusia's take on paella.  It was a big meal for the evening, but we knew we had time to digest it on the way home.

Arroz caldoso in Jaén.