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Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Castles and Cathedrals in Jaén (19)

We had a very Spanish tostada in the hotel, before trekking to the ATM.

Luckily, after that, we were considerably closer to our next destination: the Cathedral.  We didn't actually go inside, but we did admire its exterior, and watch the protests going on outside.

Cathedral of Jaén.
Now for a bit of history.  Jaén was conquered by Christian forces, in 1246, but it wasn't until 1368 that the Bishop demolished the mosque, and the construction of a Gothic cathedral began.  It appears that it wasn't very sound, because it was torn down at the end of the 15th Century, and a new cathedral, in the same style, was built.  From what I understand, there were various problems with its funding, and it wasn't finished and consecrated until 1660.

To my mind, the Castillo de Santa Catalina is Jaén's greatest attraction, so I couldn't let my 'tour group' leave without admiring the amazing views it offers.

View from the cross on the Cerro de Santa Catalina, Jaén.

Looking over Jaén, from the Cerro de Santa Catalina.
Aside from that, it has played an important role in history.  For a start, archaeologists have found signs that the hill upon which the castle is perched has been inhabited for four thousand years.  The castle, which began as an alcázar under the reign of Alhamar, is situated at an altitude of 800 metres.  It was rebuilt in 1246, when Jaén was conquered by the Christian forces.  It was used, and damaged, under Napoleon's occupation.  In 1907, a private buyer tried to renovate it, with little success.  Finally, it was sold to the Jaén Council, and the construction of the current parador (hotel in a building with historic/artistic/cultural value) was authorised.  Unfortunately, this damaged many important archaeological sites.

Remains near the Castillo de Santa Catalina, Jaén.
Just so we could say we'd had lunch in a castle, we had a coffee and very tasty sandwich in the hotel's café, before getting a taxi back to the hotel, and to the bus station.

Mum and Dad were totally gob smacked at the fact that we were getting an hour-and-a-half bus ride to La Carolina for just over 4€ per person.  Thanks, SAMAR.  The taxi driver had been trying to convince us to let him take us, as it was 'about the same price.'  I don't know where he learnt his maths skills, but 20€ and 70€ are not the same thing.  :p

Kingi the Kiwi on the bus between Jaén and La Carolina.
Once in La Carolina, we settled them into their hotel, NH La Perdiz.  It was a nice, spacious room (with an enormous bed), and at a good rate, since we got an 'early bird' discount for booking well in advance.

La Carolina's paseo.
A short walk down the paseo worked up our appetite for tapas at La Toja, the flashest restaurant in town.  It gave Ma and Pa the chance to meet some of my friends here, but also meant they got to try La Carolina's famous partridge pâté (paté de perdiz), and drink Lambrusco.

Paté de Perdiz, Lambrusco, and beer, all in La Toja, La Carolina.

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